Dear Boo,
I have no remaining physical evidence of the miracle which took place in my apartment on Easter Sunday. No image appearing on a slice of toast, no time lapse photography showing a glass of wine disappeared by an elusive Elijiah (see what I did there?), no, not even a single blurry cell phone photo in which one can barely make out the outline of a figure backlit in a halo of warm afternoon sunlight.
Oh wait, there is a blurry photo:
Can you see it? Glowing, ever so slightly? There, next to the brown smudge? No, the other one?
But you can kind of feel the power, right?
Well, you'll just have to take my word for it. Actually, you won't, since you were there and bore witness to the sacred event, but for the benefit of posterity, I am putting this down in print so that, like the gospels, future generations can hear tell of a time when inspiration led to magic and tired mothers could be geniuses.
It was Easter Sunday. Some of us wore frills.
Some didn't. All were hungry. Most were sleepy.
I planned a simple menu which could be executed easily and quickly during morning naptime. It included: Shakshuka, bacon, roasted potatoes, with delicious asparagus vinaigrette provided by the Boo, and fresh fruit and a fruit crisp from The Mother.
We all know, I hope, that when making bacon in large quantities, and especially for guests, one should always make it in the oven. Standing over a splattering pan of bacon grease, flipping and burning yourself and ruining your clothes and generally smoking up the place, when you should be drinking mimosas on the couch, is just dumb. As such, I planned to stick a package on a sheet tray and throw it in the oven a few minutes before your arrival. But there were also the potatoes that I planned to cut up and roast on a pan with olive oil, salt, pepper, and a little paprika, which would also take up oven space and time. Then I realized they both would cook at the same temperature, and could therefore go into the oven together (if not for the same duration). And Then--THEN--it hit me. Here's how my thinking went, if you can call pure inspiration, pure TRUTH and LIGHT and GOODNESS beamed directly into your soul, beyond words, beyond rational thought, beyond emotion and petty distractions of human life, "thinking."
I often roast chicken on top of chunked up root vegetables (like potatoes) in the same pan. Classic, right? This serves multiple purposes: 1: makes a delicious one-pot meal with meat and sides, 2: Seasons the vegetables with herbs and juices from the chicken, and keeps them moist, and 3: makes a sort of 'rack' for the chicken which allows air to flow on all sides, so the chicken is moist and the skin crispy, rather than having it sit in the bottom of the pan, stewing in the juices.
Well!
I've seen recipes for oven-cooked bacon which have you lay it on a rack in the pan so the grease drips down to the bottom and the bacon gets nice and crispy. And I've surely seen recipes for potatoes cooked in various fats--duck fat, chicken fat (see above)...
And most of all, a voice inside me seemed to speak, why do two dishes when you can do just one! And thou shalt line it with aluminum foil and not ask questions about the potential toxicity of this and ye shall peel it and throw it away and drink another mimosa instead of getting a cramp in thy arm scrubbing off crusted bits and it will be good.
BAM!
I chopped and tossed the potatoes with just a touch of oil (the bacon would provide the rest of the fat), and seasonings. Spread them on a lined pan, and then carefully draped some nice applewood smoked bacon over the top. Popped the pan into a pre-heated oven at 400 and sat back while the incomparable smell of smoky salty pork overtook the apartment. Flipping the potatoes took a bit of finagling what with the bacon in the way, but it was worth it. When the bacon looked just about perfect, I pulled it out and onto a waiting paper towel. Left the potatoes in a bit longer until they were golden and crispy with fluffy interiors, and then scattered some chopped scallions over the top with a dash of more salt.
Result: I am genius, obvi. But this isn't about me. It was never about me. This is about the future. About sharing this revelation with our children, and our children's children. Its a new day, and this day tastes like perfectly cooked potatoes bathed in essence of bacon, with skins that shatter sonorously against the tooth and bacon that is even and crisp and smoky with nary a smidgen burnt or undercooked and slimy. It's beautiful.
And the shakshuka was pretty rapturous as well.
Love,
The Mouse
Showing posts with label Easter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Easter. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 29, 2014
Wednesday, April 17, 2013
A cake for Spring (and Breakfast)
Dear Boo,
I'm not much of a baker anymore, a fact that the Husband often laments. I first came to cooking through baking, as I think many people do, and I used to enjoy the methodical, detailed instructions and found it comforting to know that one must really follow the exact steps to come up with a successful product. No scary riffing or improvisation expected. And I've always been a very good rule follower. But over the years as I've gained some confidence in the kitchen, I've come to enjoy the freedom of trusting my taste and tweaking recipes as I go and to be increasingly frustrated by the precision, patience, and multiple dirty dishes required of baking. Coinciding with this was the mysterious disappearance of my sweet tooth, which miraculously and somewhat controversially reappeared recently without so much as a Hey, how ya been.
Which is how I found myself making this cake. It seemed a perfect compromise for me: practically a one-bowl wonder, nicely unfussy but pretty in presentation, not too sweet as balanced by the sour lemon, and not too healthy (despite the yogurt) as balanced by the copious amounts of cream dolloped and cascading down the slice. And a very welcome taste of a very welcome new season. (There are bursting buds on the tree outside my window! They make the discarded plastic bags hanging off the branches look so whimsical!)
We ate it as dessert with Easter dinner, but it is equally appropriate with a cup of afternoon tea, or for that matter with morning coffee. I realized the next day when I brought the leftovers to work, that it suspiciously resembles the top of a muffin. And I'm just fine with that.
Love,
The Mouse
Lemon-Blueberry Yogurt Cake with Lemon Cream
Adapted by The Kitchn from Gourmet, Serves 8
For the cake:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup granulated sugar
Zest of one lemon (about 1 1/2 teaspoons)
1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 large egg 1/4 cup plain Greek yogurt (whole or 2%)
1/4 cup milk
1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries (no need to thaw)
1 1/2 tablespoons turbinado sugar
For the lemon cream:
1/4 cup heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons store-bought lemon curd
Preheat oven to 400°F with rack in the middle. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper. Flour the sides.
Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl and set aside. Place the granulated sugar and lemon zest in the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large mixing bowl. Using your fingers, rub the zest into the sugar until it is the texture of damp sand and smells like lemon candy. Add the butter and beat in a stand mixer or with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the vanilla and the egg. Add the yogurt and beat well.
At low speed, beat in half the flour mixture until just combined. Then beat in the milk and remaining flour mixture.
Spread batter evenly in the pan. Scatter berries over top and sprinkle evenly with turbinado sugar. Bake until cake is golden-brown and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 25-30 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes in the pan, then turn out onto a rack and cool for 10-15 more minutes. Remove parchment and invert onto a plate.
Meanwhile, using an electric mixer or immersion blender with a whisk attachment, beat cream and lemon curd on high speed until creamy, smooth and thick. It should be about the consistency of regular yogurt. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve. Serve cake warm or at room temperature, dolloped with lemon cream.
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Matzoh Candy
Dear Mouse,
Cough. Sneeze. Hand sanitizer. Sigh. Sneeze. Cough. Repeat.
Happy Spring!
whimsical/seasonal timer provided by The Mother
"Why don't you just go to Zabar's?" he asked.
The speaker was my cast mate X, looking at me quizzically as a group of us left the windowless, freezing, cement-walled dare i say Siberia-esque fourth-floor walkup space in which we are rehearsing, what else, Chekhov for (god help me) only two remaining weeks. And I will forgive him for asking said question on the grounds that A) I was talking groggily about getting home in time to make matzoh candy for Passover while blowing my nose repeatedly and must have looked pathetic B) he doesn't know me. Or our family. I need not explain here, I think, why even my paltry kitchen contribution to the High Holiday Feast still had to have been homemade. To bring a store bought dessert item to our Aunt's table ... it's not up for discussion, so we won't discuss.
I am happy to report, however, that this delectable, rich, sugary unleavened treat is sooooooo easy anyone can make it, with almost any sliver of spare time, even doped up on Mucinex or in a DayQuil Road Rage Haze (or both). Four ingredients. 20-30 minutes all told, really. Crunchy, buttery, caramelly, chocolatey... people go crazy for it. And if you feel guilty for having one of the best desserts despite putting in almost no work -- well, hey, that's just in the spirit of the holiday... right? somehow??
Happy Passover! And since I'm about to take the second batch down to you and The Husband for Easter Dinner, Happy Easter too!! Finally, a year-round use for matzoh.
Matzoh Brittle
4-6 unsalted matzoh boards
1 C butter (2 sticks)
3/4 C chocolate chips
1 C brown sugar
Preheat oven to 375. Line baking tray/sheet with tinfoil, then with parchment paper (very important! The first time I made this I used wax paper and spent a very long time trying to peel melted wax off otherwise decent candy ... unsuccessfully.) Place matzoh boards on parchment, breaking up pieces as needed to fill in all spaces as much as possible. Put butter and sugar in a pot on the stove over high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cook 3 minutes more, stirring constantly, then take off heat and pour over matzoh. (Be careful!!! Caramel burns are NO JOKE). Place in oven and immediately reduce heat to 350. Bake for 15 min. If you feel like it's browning too fast or may burn, lower to 325, but mine was fine. Remove from oven and sprinkle immediately with chocolate chips. Wait 5 minutes, then spread the melted chocolate all over the caramel. While it's still warm, cut into squares or odd jagged shapes (which I prefer), then put in fridge til it sets (freezer is ok too I found).
Helena: (after a pause) "God how beautiful the weather is!"
Vanya: "God how I wish I were dead!"
-Uncle Vanya (Target Margin, after Anton Chekhov)
Happy Spring!
whimsical/seasonal timer provided by The Mother
"Why don't you just go to Zabar's?" he asked.
The speaker was my cast mate X, looking at me quizzically as a group of us left the windowless, freezing, cement-walled dare i say Siberia-esque fourth-floor walkup space in which we are rehearsing, what else, Chekhov for (god help me) only two remaining weeks. And I will forgive him for asking said question on the grounds that A) I was talking groggily about getting home in time to make matzoh candy for Passover while blowing my nose repeatedly and must have looked pathetic B) he doesn't know me. Or our family. I need not explain here, I think, why even my paltry kitchen contribution to the High Holiday Feast still had to have been homemade. To bring a store bought dessert item to our Aunt's table ... it's not up for discussion, so we won't discuss.
Fun fact: at least according to this recipe, the slabs of matzoh are actually referred to as "boards", which basically confirms for us all that they are, indeed, made of cardboard. But what delicious cardboard!
Caramel. That's how I roll.
I am happy to report, however, that this delectable, rich, sugary unleavened treat is sooooooo easy anyone can make it, with almost any sliver of spare time, even doped up on Mucinex or in a DayQuil Road Rage Haze (or both). Four ingredients. 20-30 minutes all told, really. Crunchy, buttery, caramelly, chocolatey... people go crazy for it. And if you feel guilty for having one of the best desserts despite putting in almost no work -- well, hey, that's just in the spirit of the holiday... right? somehow??
Happy Passover! And since I'm about to take the second batch down to you and The Husband for Easter Dinner, Happy Easter too!! Finally, a year-round use for matzoh.
Matzoh Brittle
4-6 unsalted matzoh boards
1 C butter (2 sticks)
3/4 C chocolate chips
1 C brown sugar
Preheat oven to 375. Line baking tray/sheet with tinfoil, then with parchment paper (very important! The first time I made this I used wax paper and spent a very long time trying to peel melted wax off otherwise decent candy ... unsuccessfully.) Place matzoh boards on parchment, breaking up pieces as needed to fill in all spaces as much as possible. Put butter and sugar in a pot on the stove over high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cook 3 minutes more, stirring constantly, then take off heat and pour over matzoh. (Be careful!!! Caramel burns are NO JOKE). Place in oven and immediately reduce heat to 350. Bake for 15 min. If you feel like it's browning too fast or may burn, lower to 325, but mine was fine. Remove from oven and sprinkle immediately with chocolate chips. Wait 5 minutes, then spread the melted chocolate all over the caramel. While it's still warm, cut into squares or odd jagged shapes (which I prefer), then put in fridge til it sets (freezer is ok too I found).
Friday, April 10, 2009
Pesto, Pickles, and Poetry: the Feasts of Spring
Dear Mouse,
It always makes sense to me that so many Big Feasts take place right around this time. You just naturally feel like celebrating: Go, Earth, Go! Pass the peas! I've also always thought that our multi-ethnic lot in life affords you and I particular perspective on this. And since the notion of Deity played, shall we say, a minor role in our family's Rites of Spring, it was usually (what else) the Food that took center stage.
As mentioned in the Egg Miracle entry a few weeks ago, the usual crew gathered at my place on 3/21 and- with wine, food, flowers, plants, eggshells and paintbrushes - welcomed the season. This ancient holiday celebrates (what else?!) the earth's renewal. It is associated with the pagan fertility goddess Ostara, whose symbols were the egg and the rabbit (hmmm...), whose alternate spellings include Eostre and Eostar (hmm), and after whom I would totally name a pet rabbit.
My slammin' seasonal menu this year: Chase's asparagus vinaigrette (make this, you will NOT be sorry), couscous with feta and chopped veggies, and a baked salmon topped with mint pesto. I hadn't made Mint Pesto before but I had a hunch it would be kind of perfect and I wasn't disappointed. This no-cheese concoction is very simple and fresh -- chopped mint, walnuts, olive oil, lemon zest, salt and pepper. While I think of Basil Pesto as Queen of Summer, the mint version really tastes like spring.
II. Passover - Freedom/Liberation/Plagues/Hors d'Oeuvres How is this night different from all other nights? A) Brisket. 
Velvety, Gravylicious Brisket.

Why, why so fluffy??
C) The Pickle Guys.

Ok. Special Report. If you live in New York, have not had these, and think that you like pickles, run do not walk. I always eat too many on holidays but I'm smiling while the acid eats my stomach. Warning: may cause you to be irritiating and smug when offered pickle substitutes in other cities.

Dumplings.
Ok, now that that's out of the way...
It's been way too long since I posted here and in that time, SPRING has officially sprung!! Ok, the weather is terrible. BUT YESTERDAY it was HOT and sunny and I bought your birthday present at a Street Fair!
It's been way too long since I posted here and in that time, SPRING has officially sprung!! Ok, the weather is terrible. BUT YESTERDAY it was HOT and sunny and I bought your birthday present at a Street Fair!
It always makes sense to me that so many Big Feasts take place right around this time. You just naturally feel like celebrating: Go, Earth, Go! Pass the peas! I've also always thought that our multi-ethnic lot in life affords you and I particular perspective on this. And since the notion of Deity played, shall we say, a minor role in our family's Rites of Spring, it was usually (what else) the Food that took center stage.
This year has been no exception. I'll try to go in order.
I. Spring Equinox - Sex/Power/God
(no relation to the annual Brown University hedonistic dance party of the same name)



III. Easter (Rebirth/Renewal)
(See Pagan Etymology Above, Add One Cool Guy Coming Back from Death)
One springy aspect this year of both P'Over and P'Easter was having Little People around, which really made both celebrations so much, much noisier. I mean, evocative of life's renewal. For example, at the first, we were treated to the singing of the Four Questions by two F'adorable little girls (our Portland cousins in town!!!) rather than the muttering of them by, say, me, or someone about to graduate college. And on Easter at your place, the Boyfriend's perfect little nieces and gorgeous sister brought on the Attack of the Boo-Must-Make-Magnolia-Cupcakes...Itis.

I dressed in purple and yellow to match them and feel no shame about this.
IV. National Poetry Writing Month, AKA NaPoWriMo - Creativity
Ok while this is not a Holiday per se, I think it perfectly celebrates the season. Each April, writers everywhere commit to a poem a day for 30 days and post online to be held accountable. It's an explosion of creativity. This year, I joined in (with songs) and have been surprised and truly grateful for the exercise - it broke a year-long writers' block and reunited me with the love of composing. Can't nothing, even mint pesto, be more Springy than that.
In the spirit of NaPoWriMo, I'll close with a fantastically appropriate poem I found by dear friend and badass writer EKT.
when I tell you I love to eat
I mean I love to hold the pieces
in my mouth like wet merchants,
each new thing baring some far
away story of salt or blood, spring
or musk to sell to my foolish lord
tongue, who is fat and dancing
with each.
I consider my need to swallow a
handicap. I consider my teeth
wolves. I consider myself chemically
imbalanced at times, but for a
chunk of gruyere and an apple. I
have been so take by the soft pink
sliced from bone, the cracked seeds,
the clotted milk and winking fruit
that has kissed my ugly breath, swelled
my never loved belly, tell me:
what love would die to fill my mouth?
who could ever want me like that?
I mean I love to hold the pieces
in my mouth like wet merchants,
each new thing baring some far
away story of salt or blood, spring
or musk to sell to my foolish lord
tongue, who is fat and dancing
with each.
I consider my need to swallow a
handicap. I consider my teeth
wolves. I consider myself chemically
imbalanced at times, but for a
chunk of gruyere and an apple. I
have been so take by the soft pink
sliced from bone, the cracked seeds,
the clotted milk and winking fruit
that has kissed my ugly breath, swelled
my never loved belly, tell me:
what love would die to fill my mouth?
who could ever want me like that?
Gotta go write #20.
Love,
The Boo
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